09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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10. It is much easier <strong>to</strong> work on the laminate strip before it is attached in place, so we will drill the holes for<br />

the lamp column and the variable resis<strong>to</strong>r, and cut out the rectangular holes needed for mounting the two<br />

rocker switches. In the UK, the rocker switches and variable resis<strong>to</strong>r look like this:<br />

The switches need a rectangular hole of 13 x 19 mm, while the variable resis<strong>to</strong>r needs a 10 mm diameter<br />

circular hole and the lamp shown also needs a 10 mm diameter hole. Hold the laminate strip in place and<br />

mark the locations carefully, making sure that each item will not foul anything underneath before cutting<br />

out the various apertures. Slide the knob on <strong>to</strong> the shaft of the variable resis<strong>to</strong>r and note the length of<br />

shaft inside the knob. Cut the shaft, leaving that same length of shaft remaining. Attach the variable<br />

resis<strong>to</strong>r and switches <strong>to</strong> the laminate strip and slide the knob on <strong>to</strong> the remaining variable resis<strong>to</strong>r shaft.<br />

The skirt of the knob should now be close <strong>to</strong> the surface of the laminate strip and a V-shaped piece of<br />

material can be glued in place <strong>to</strong> give a reading point for the scale on the knob.<br />

11. If a commercial lamp is being used, then it needs <strong>to</strong> be taken apart now and prepared for this project.<br />

The base is removed, the bulb holder is removed and two wires are fed through the remaining shaft so<br />

that the LED arrays can be fitted. A circular disc of any kind of rigid material is cut, the diameter being<br />

slightly less than the diameter of the mouth of the lamp. Four or five LED arrays (depending on your<br />

choice of numbers) are glued <strong>to</strong> the disc and wired up in parallel with all of the plus wires connected<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether and <strong>to</strong> one of the wires feeding through the shaft of the lamp, and all of the minus wires<br />

connected <strong>to</strong>gether and attached <strong>to</strong> the other wire passing through the column of the lamp:<br />

This disc is then eased through the mouth of the lamp shade where it sits about 10 mm below the rim of<br />

the shade due <strong>to</strong> the taper of the shade. Position the disc so that it is square on <strong>to</strong> the rim of the shade<br />

and glue it in position. If frosted plastic is <strong>to</strong> be used, then mark the sheet around the rim of the shade<br />

and cut out the resulting circle, drill some ventilation holes in it although the LED arrays always run cold,<br />

and glue the frosted plastic disc <strong>to</strong> the rim of the shade.<br />

12. Connect the wires <strong>to</strong> the switches and variable resis<strong>to</strong>r mounted on the laminate strip, and then position<br />

the lamp in its hole and fix it in place by tightening one nut. There are two nuts but I have found the<br />

locking nut <strong>to</strong> be less than adequate, so epoxy the tightened nut <strong>to</strong> the remainder of the screw thread as<br />

that keeps the nut securely in place and yet allows the lamp <strong>to</strong> be rotated quite easily.<br />

To make construction easier, before placing this laminate strip in place, if a separate On/Off switch is<br />

being used, then make the connections shown here:<br />

14 - 97

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