09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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Cut a six-inch (150 mm) diameter lid out of 1/8 inch (3 mm) stainless steel. Cut a matching ring gasket of<br />

natural rubber (Buna-n material if natural rubber can’t be obtained), place it on <strong>to</strong>p of the flange with the lid<br />

on <strong>to</strong>p of it and clamp the lid firmly down on the flange. Drill a hole <strong>to</strong> take a 1/4 inch (6 mm) stainless steel<br />

bolt, through the lid and the middle of the flange. Insert a bolt and tighten its nut <strong>to</strong> further clamp the lid in<br />

place. An alternative <strong>to</strong> this for the more experienced metalworker, is <strong>to</strong> drill a hole slightly smaller than the<br />

bolt, and when all holes have been drilled, remove the lid, enlarge the lid holes <strong>to</strong> allow free passage of the<br />

bolts, and cut a thread inside the flange holes which matches the thread on the bolts <strong>to</strong> be used. This gives<br />

a very neat, nut-free result, but it calls for a greater skill level and more <strong>to</strong>ols.<br />

If using nuts and bolts, drill a similar hole 180 degrees away and fasten a bolt through it. Repeat the process<br />

for the 90 degree and 270 degree points. This gives a lid which is held in place at its quarter points. You can<br />

now complete the job with either four more evenly-spaced bolts or eight more evenly-spaced bolts. The<br />

complete bolting for the twelve-bolt choice will look something like this when the cell is installed:<br />

The lid can be finished off by drilling its centre <strong>to</strong> take the fitting for the aluminium pipe which will feed the<br />

output from the cell <strong>to</strong> the engine. This fitting, in common with every other fitting must be made of stainless<br />

steel. Video at http://youtu.be/-7075bVmDQo.<br />

The next step is <strong>to</strong> assemble the neutral pipes. Cut them <strong>to</strong> 8-inch (200 mm) lengths. These pipes are held<br />

in place by the natural rubber insula<strong>to</strong>rs. This material comes in an o-ring strip which is like a hosepipe with<br />

a large wall-thickness. The gap between the pipes will be approximately half an inch (12 mm), so cut each<br />

piece of pipe <strong>to</strong> a length which makes it a very tight fit in that gap. Cut six spacers, locate the 3-inch<br />

diameter pipe exactly over the inner pipe and push three of them between the pipes, about a quarter of an<br />

inch from each end and evenly spaced 120 degrees apart around the circumference of the pipes. The hole<br />

through the centre of the insulating strip points <strong>to</strong>wards the centre of the cell and the ends of the insula<strong>to</strong>r<br />

pieces press against the cylinder walls. These pieces are not placed lengthwise:<br />

Place similar insula<strong>to</strong>rs at the other end of the two-inch pipe, directly above the ones already in place. If you<br />

look down the length of the tubes, then only three of the six insula<strong>to</strong>rs should be seen if they are correctly<br />

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