Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

in the drawing. I strongly recommend that the switching drum be solid and the brass or copper insets be a fair
thickness and keyed securely into the drum. The surface of the inserts should be very gently eased into exact
alignment with the surface of the drum, possibly by the very careful use of a small file or lathe if you are lucky
enough to have access to one.
The pivots for all of the switching arms can be a length of threaded rod with lock nuts at each end. There should
be almost no movement of the switching arms when the drum is spinning, so no enormous precision is needed for
the holes in the switching arms, through which the threaded rod runs. Having said that, it must be understood that
each switch in the set of three, must turn On and OFF at the same time, so the contacts on the spring-loaded
arms must slide on to and off the conducting strips in the switching cylinder, at exactly the same time.
The drawing shows three conducting inserts at each of eight evenly-spaced positions around the circumference of
the drum. The number around the drum is not critical although this suggestion gives eight switchings per
revolution. If you choose to use a different number, you need to remember that the positioning of the arms
underneath the drum will be different. You need to arrange it so that just after one set runs off its conducting
strips that the other set slides on to it's conducting strips. Both sets of switches must not be ON at the same time
as that short-circuits the batteries, which is probably not a good idea.
The timing adjustment is achieved by moving the supporting block slightly, by easing the four clamping screws,
sliding the block and tightening the screws again. This, of course, is done when the drum is not rotating.
Each set of six switching arms needs to have all of the arms exactly the same length between the sliding contact
(shown as a bolt head) and the pivot hole. Each of the conducting strips inset into the drum, need to be aligned
exactly and be exactly the same width, otherwise the switching action will be ragged and not properly
synchronised.
The supports for the switching arms can be either a single block with slots cut in it or the easier construction
shown, where it is fabricated from several standard rectangular pieces and glued and/or screwed together.
The unequal amount of conducting strip compared to the non-conducting part means that there will be a timing
gap between each pair of On/Off switchings. In spite of that, the battery switching will be a 50% Duty cycle as
required. The switching sequence will then be: On / Off / Pause, On / Off / Pause, On / Off / Pause ….. and that
may well be a desirable arrangement as having an inter-pulse delay can be very good for battery charging.
However, please don’t imagine that the Tesla Switch described here is a ‘plug-and-play’ device which you can
switch on and it will give you the sort of outputs mentioned above, as that is very much not the case. You need to
see the Tesla Switch as being a long-term development project with high potential.
If you use the Tesla Switch circuit with manual switches and run each phase for many minutes before altering the
switching, it can give up to four times better performance than running the load off the four batteries in parallel.
That is not what the Tesla Switch is all about.
The Tesla Switch is one of the more difficult devices to get operational, in spite of the fact that it appeals to a large
number of people. There are three possible modes of operation. If the diodes are turned the wrong way round so
that they can feed current from each battery, then the operation will definitely be COP