09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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We need <strong>to</strong> pass a mild steel pipe through the plate in the centre of the square, and we are not going <strong>to</strong> put in any<br />

additional work on the hub plate until we have the pipe in place and its welding is confirmed <strong>to</strong> be accurate. The<br />

pipe is needed <strong>to</strong> give the thin hub plate stability when rotating around the 50 mm diameter axle shaft, and so, it<br />

should be at least 100 mm (4-inches) long when installed. There is a mild steel pipe with 80.78 mm inner<br />

diameter and an outer diameter of 88.9 mm and a wall thickness of 4.06 mm. That gives a clearance of just 0.39<br />

mm all around the bearing and allows the bearing <strong>to</strong> be tack welded directly <strong>to</strong> the pipe which has a robust wall<br />

thickness.<br />

Cut a 300 mm length of the pipe and position it carefully in the centre of the square marked in the middle of the<br />

hub plate. Draw carefully around it <strong>to</strong> show the size and position where the pipe needs <strong>to</strong> go. We now have the<br />

difficulty of getting the pipe through the hub plate. With a powerful plasma cutter that would be no problem and<br />

the circular cut could be made quite easily, but it is definitely <strong>to</strong>o expensive <strong>to</strong> buy one for just that one cut,<br />

although hiring one and an air compressor for a morning might be an option.<br />

With the most simple <strong>to</strong>ols you could cut out the largest possible square in the centre of the circle and then use a<br />

round file (and a lot of effort) <strong>to</strong> cut back the remaining metal <strong>to</strong> make the required circle. A more crude method is<br />

<strong>to</strong> just cut out a square and settle for welding the pipe at the four points where it <strong>to</strong>uches the hub plate.<br />

Remember that the moment the weld is made on one side of the hub plate, the other side of the hub plate needs<br />

<strong>to</strong> be welded immediately and both allowed <strong>to</strong> cool as slowly as possible <strong>to</strong> avoid heat shrinkage pulling the pipe<br />

out of its alignment with the hub plate. Remember that the hub plate will be hot enough <strong>to</strong> burn you even if the<br />

weld only <strong>to</strong>ok a split second <strong>to</strong> make, so take care. In other words, if the pipe is vertical, then (almost)<br />

simultaneous welds need <strong>to</strong> be made on the <strong>to</strong>p of the hub plate and on the underside of the hub plate. The<br />

thicker the steel, the easier it is <strong>to</strong> weld without problems and the pipe is straightforward <strong>to</strong> weld with its 4 mm<br />

thickness. It takes a great deal of skill <strong>to</strong> weld steel sheet of 1 mm thickness without tearing a hole in the sheet,<br />

but thankfully, that is not something which you need <strong>to</strong> do with this design.<br />

Before welding, we need <strong>to</strong> stand the pipe piece exactly vertical <strong>to</strong> the hub plate, with 50 mm projecting beyond<br />

the hub plate. This can be done easily with four permanent magnet units intended specifically for this job. They<br />

are very powerful and look like this:<br />

These attach strongly <strong>to</strong> both the pipe and the hub plate and with one every 90 degrees around the axle, it is held<br />

very securely in place, leaving plenty of space for the initial welds. In early 2016, a set of four of these right-angle<br />

magnets costs £10 in the UK.<br />

Having tack-welded the pipe carefully and quickly on both sides, using welds only 6 mm or so long, and having<br />

waited for those welds <strong>to</strong> cool down fully, make two additional tack welds at 180 degrees <strong>to</strong> the first two, and then<br />

two more pairs so as <strong>to</strong> have a weld every 90 degrees around the pipe. This leaves you with 50 mm of pipe<br />

20 - 11

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