09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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These come with a mounting bar and clamps and using only half of the bar, can give 5, 10, 15 or 20 kilograms on<br />

the half shaft. It should also be possible <strong>to</strong> convert one of the smaller discs in<strong>to</strong> a pulley if you feel like doing that.<br />

You can also get a flywheel made up by a local steel fabrication shop, or a friend with a metal-cutting lathe could<br />

make one for you.<br />

If you are inclined <strong>to</strong> put dumbbell discs on <strong>to</strong> a threaded steel rod or plain steel circular bar then the alignment<br />

can be helped by using a stack of the weights and some electrical tape. Decide where you want the first disc <strong>to</strong><br />

be located on the bar. That is, what length of bar you want sticking out of the disc. The thickness of one disc<br />

further along the bar <strong>to</strong>wards its end, wind electrical tape tightly around the bar and keep winding until the tape is<br />

a reasonably tight fit in the central hole of one of the discs and position a disc there. That places the rod central <strong>to</strong><br />

the hole in the disc. Just above that disc put a piece of card which has a hole which is a tight fit on the rod and is<br />

wider than the hole in every direction. Measure all of the discs of that size which you have and measure along the<br />

bar <strong>to</strong> where the last disc would be if all those discs were placed in a stack on the bar. Wind more electrical tape<br />

<strong>to</strong> form a plug for the disc hole of the <strong>to</strong>p disc in the stack. Supporting one disc on a pile of books or some other<br />

suitable packing which allows the axle shaft <strong>to</strong> be vertical, put one disc on <strong>to</strong>p of the card on the rod and fill in<br />

around the shaft with epoxy resin. Then place all the other discs on the rod <strong>to</strong> form a perfect stack, using a<br />

straight edge all around the stack <strong>to</strong> ensure that the discs are exactly on <strong>to</strong>p of each other. The electrical tape<br />

rings at <strong>to</strong>p and bot<strong>to</strong>m give exact alignment provided that the discs are all aligned exactly:<br />

When the epoxy has gone hard, you can remove the upper discs and the bot<strong>to</strong>m disc and remove the card which<br />

will be stuck <strong>to</strong> the epoxy and which will need <strong>to</strong> be cut away and sanded smooth. Treating the glued disc as the<br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m one, as many discs as you want can be epoxied <strong>to</strong> the axle shaft in a single operation, ideally keeping an<br />

extra disc at the <strong>to</strong>p centred with a ring of electrical insulation tape. Use slow setting epoxy and be sure <strong>to</strong> fill all<br />

of the gap between the axle shaft and the inside of the discs with no air voids in the epoxy and make sure that the<br />

stack of discs are exactly aligned, checking all around with your straight edge:<br />

When the epoxy has set, you end up with an accurate, properly centred and squared flywheel:<br />

19 - 6

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