09.02.2018 Views

Practical Guige to Free Energy Devices

eBook 3000 pages! author: Patrick J. Kelly "This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion. Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. " THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO. ​

eBook 3000 pages!
author: Patrick J. Kelly

"This eBook contains most of what I have learned about this subject after researching it for a number of years. I am not trying to sell you anything, nor am I trying to convince you of anything. When I started looking into this subject, there was very little useful information and any that was around was buried deep in incomprehensible patents and documents. My purpose here is to make it easier for you to locate and understand some of the relevant material now available. What you believe is up to yourself and is none of my business. Let me stress that almost all of the devices discussed in the following pages, are devices which I have not personally built and tested. It would take several lifetimes to do that and it would not be in any way a practical option. Consequently, although I believe everything said is fully accurate and correct, you should treat everything as being “hearsay” or opinion.

Some time ago, it was commonly believed that the world was flat and rested on the backs of four elephants and that when earthquakes shook the ground, it was the elephants getting restless. If you want to believe that, you are fully at liberty to do so, however, you can count me out as I don’t believe that. "

THE MATERIAL PRESENTED IS FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. SHOULD YOU DECIDE TO PERFORM EXPERIMENTS OR CONSTRUCT ANY DEVICE, YOU DO SO WHOLLY ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY -- NEITHER THE COMPANY HOSTING THIS WEB SITE, NOR THE SITE DESIGNER ARE IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR ANY RESULTING LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY DESCRIPTION, SHOULD ANY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF WHAT YOU DO.

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Leave 30 mm below the lowest plank position and 20 mm at each of the two side planks, and draw the horizontal<br />

and vertical lines shown in blue in the diagram above. Then, putting the drill bit back in the hole and using a piece<br />

of string and a pencil <strong>to</strong> improvise a very large compass, draw the red arc shown above. That completes the<br />

outline of the side panel of your sta<strong>to</strong>r, which can now be cut out. This cutting is not critical in any way, but it<br />

would be nice <strong>to</strong> have it looking neat. The completed side panel is now placed on a second panel and a pencil<br />

mark is made <strong>to</strong> show the position of the drilled hole. The second panel is drilled with a 10 mm diameter hole and<br />

the drill bit is used <strong>to</strong> make sure that the two holes align perfectly. A pencil line is now traced around the outside<br />

of the completed side and the second side panel is then cut out along that line.<br />

The 10 mm drill bit is now used <strong>to</strong> align the ro<strong>to</strong>r and the second side panel, taking great care <strong>to</strong> align the ro<strong>to</strong>r in<br />

exactly the same position as on the first side, and the end positions of the planks marked out and drilled ready <strong>to</strong><br />

take the screws.<br />

Next, you take your two bearings and treat them <strong>to</strong> make them as free-spinning as possible, then, measure<br />

carefully out from the hole drilled in each of the two sta<strong>to</strong>r side panels and mark a circle of exactly the same<br />

diameter as the outside of the bearings. Use a power jig saw <strong>to</strong> cut out the circle staying just inside the line. This<br />

gives a rough opening which is just <strong>to</strong>o small for the bearing <strong>to</strong> fit in<strong>to</strong>. Enlarge the hole very gradually using a<br />

wood rasp or coarse sandpaper until a bearing can just be forced in<strong>to</strong> the hole. Leave the bearing in place but<br />

don’t do anything further <strong>to</strong> attach it at this time – that will be done later when the axle is in place and the ro<strong>to</strong>r has<br />

been proved <strong>to</strong> spin freely.<br />

The base panel is just a rectangle 850 x 500 mm in size, but we are not ready <strong>to</strong> assemble the unit just yet as we<br />

need <strong>to</strong> wind the coils and attach them <strong>to</strong> their support planks ahead of assembling the genera<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

We need <strong>to</strong> choose a wire diameter, coil dimensions, number of turns per coil and style of winding. Those items<br />

are the things which are changed when a builder says that he is “tuning” his genera<strong>to</strong>r <strong>to</strong> get maximum<br />

performance. It sounds much more impressive <strong>to</strong> say that you are “tuning” rather than <strong>to</strong> say that you are<br />

experimenting with different coils. So, let’s get started with our choices.<br />

The thicker the wire used, the greater the current which it can carry, but the fewer turns which will fit on <strong>to</strong> any<br />

particular coil spool. Also, the thicker the wire, the shorter the length which you get when buying it by weight.<br />

The thinnest wire, say, SWG 40 which is about one tenth of a millimetre in diameter, is liable <strong>to</strong> break when you<br />

wind it unless you are very careful and wind gently. The really thick wire is a bit stiff and can be a bit difficult <strong>to</strong><br />

wind. However, we are not going <strong>to</strong> encounter those problems in this job as current handling capacity needs <strong>to</strong> be<br />

taken in<strong>to</strong> account. The question we need <strong>to</strong> answer is “how much current can we draw from a coil when we<br />

swing a magnet past the coil?” and the answer is “probably not much”. So, we take a look at the table which<br />

shows the currents which the different wire sizes can carry comfortably:<br />

17 - 15

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