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difference from both the Macedonian period and<br />

the Roman Empire. Rome established a decentralized<br />

administrative mechanism and a multicultural<br />

army and respected local cultures. Emperor Hadrian<br />

lived in Athens occasionally and constructed<br />

Hadrian’s gate, the library by the Roman Forum in<br />

the city center, and an admirable aqueduct, which<br />

was revived in the nineteenth century and relieved<br />

water shortages in Athens for a while. In classical<br />

Athens, by contrast, the social exclusion of noncitizens<br />

would soon backfire, as citizens became vulnerable<br />

to attacks by noncitizens during the Peloponnesian<br />

wars. After flowering for a mere century, Athens surrendered<br />

to the Spartans by 404 BC, the Long Walls<br />

to Piraeus were demolished, and democracy was<br />

shattered by the regime of the 30 tyrants.<br />

Neoclassical Athens<br />

Athens followed Aegina and Nafplion as the capital<br />

of Hellas after independence from Ottoman rule<br />

(according to the 1830 London Protocol) and has<br />

been one of the most successful experiments of creation<br />

of an artificial capital on a global scale. In<br />

1834 it was declared the capital of the new Greek<br />

Kingdom, was rebuilt with modern urban design<br />

and neoclassical architecture, and metamorphosed<br />

from a deserted village of 12,000 inhabitants during<br />

the last years of Ottoman rule, into a bustling city<br />

of 242,000 inhabitants at the turn of the twentieth<br />

century (1907). The creation of the new capital was<br />

successful, despite negative forecasts and an interesting<br />

debate about the rivalry between Athens—<br />

then a village—and cosmopolitan Constantinople<br />

as symbols of Hellenism.<br />

Urban colonization of the Greek territory via<br />

urban planning started in Athens through Bavarian<br />

planning by royalty, their architects, and planning<br />

teams. The physical process of building a capital<br />

with neoclassical architecture was also an intellectual<br />

itinerary in the fragments of history that would<br />

constitute a coherent narrative, or perhaps rather<br />

iconography, forging national identity by connecting<br />

the present with antiquity and its material manifestation<br />

in classical architecture. The core of the<br />

city obtained its celebrated iconic neoclassical<br />

“Athenian trilogy”—university, academy, library—<br />

as well as other monumental buildings, generously<br />

funded by the “great national donors.” These were<br />

Athens, Greece<br />

47<br />

affluent diaspora Greeks located throughout places<br />

of “unredeemed” Hellenism, who sponsored conspicuous<br />

monuments and public buildings.<br />

One main reason for legitimation of Bavarian<br />

design on the level of the local societies was the<br />

echo of classical Hellas. Neoclassical architecture<br />

returned to the birthplace of classicism via European<br />

<strong>cities</strong> and became crucial in the process of construction<br />

of a new national Greek identity. Athens<br />

was mostly built by Bavarians, but the buildings<br />

were “naturalized” by the inhabitants and the<br />

modern Greek nation, because of their familiar<br />

classical forms. This has facilitated the reception of<br />

European design trends imported especially by<br />

Bavarians and, even more important, has undermined<br />

colonial domination, despite the character<br />

of nineteenth-century Athens as a colonial city.<br />

A second reason for legitimation of Bavarian<br />

planning was its departure from irregular Ottoman<br />

or Mediterranean models. An interesting aspiration<br />

was the recovery of Hellenism through the<br />

“de-turkization” of Greek towns via regular plans<br />

in the tradition of the “hippodamian” system, yet<br />

another classical heritage. However, orthogonal<br />

grids, straight streets, and regular town squares<br />

were rarely realized. The Athens plan has been<br />

revised more than 3,000 times, due to pressures<br />

from local landowners. Citizens have objected to<br />

the methods of implementation of the plans they<br />

themselves had asked for and criticized planners<br />

who constructed a virtual city, the unreal landscape<br />

represented on blueprints, which has been<br />

exciting and at times menacing—as, for example,<br />

in the momentary risk of having the Acropolis<br />

incorporated in the royal palace as a décor, in<br />

accordance with Schinkel’s plan drawn by a man<br />

who never visited Athens.<br />

Neoclassicism, “de-turkization,” and cosmopolitanism<br />

were all aspects of an underlying Greek<br />

“dualism,” wherein modernity was underplayed<br />

in urban cultural discourse, overshadowed by<br />

debates over cosmopolitanism versus tradition or<br />

nationalism, which also cut through language,<br />

creating bilingualism. Alternating acceptance of,<br />

and resistance to, Westernization has been the<br />

main contradiction in the past—at present,<br />

Europeanization has put all this to rest. Power<br />

plays were stirred by the “protective powers,”<br />

who intervened in several spheres, from political

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