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28 cm. Rev. ed. 1977 Autumn Press, Brookline, MA. [53 ref]<br />

• Summary: This pioneering work started the<br />

“t<strong>of</strong>u revolution” in America. Contents: Preface.<br />

Acknowledgements. Part I. T<strong>of</strong>u: Food for mankind. 1.<br />

Protein East <strong>and</strong> West. 2. T<strong>of</strong>u as a food: Introduction, rich<br />

in high quality protein (NPU, biological value, protein<br />

score, amino acid content), high protein complementarity<br />

(t<strong>of</strong>u contains an abundance <strong>of</strong> lysine, an essential amino<br />

acid that is defi cient in many cereal grains; increase usable<br />

protein by combining t<strong>of</strong>u with wheat, rice, corn, etc.), easy<br />

to digest, an ideal diet food, low in saturated fats <strong>and</strong> free <strong>of</strong><br />

cholesterol, rich in vitamins <strong>and</strong> minerals, a health-giving<br />

natural food, backbone <strong>of</strong> the meatless / vegetarian diet, free<br />

<strong>of</strong> chemical toxins, low in cost, easily made at home, quick<br />

& easy to use, versatile.<br />

3. Getting started: Introduction, buying <strong>and</strong> storing t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

basic ingredients (whole-wheat fl our, miso {rice-, barley-,<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>soy</strong>bean miso, special Japanese miso, Chinese chiang},<br />

oil, brown rice, salt, shoyu {natural shoyu, shoyu, Chinese<br />

<strong>soy</strong> sauce, synthetic or chemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce}, sugar, vinegar,<br />

monosodium glutamate {MSG}), Japanese kitchen tools<br />

(each illustrated), preparatory techniques (salt rubbing,<br />

rinsing <strong>and</strong> pressing leeks <strong>and</strong> onions, soaking burdock root,<br />

reconstituting dried sea vegetables {dried hijiki, wakame,<br />

agar}, wheat gluten <strong>and</strong> kampyo [kanpyo], parboiling,<br />

cutting t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>and</strong> vegetables, using sesame seeds, toasting<br />

nori, preparing a steamer), basic recipes (soup stocks <strong>and</strong><br />

broths {dashi}, basic shoyu dipping sauces {tsuke-jiru}, miso<br />

toppings {sweet simmered miso / nerimiso, miso sauté /<br />

abura miso, special miso toppings <strong>and</strong> dipping sauces, fi nger<br />

lickin’ miso, <strong>and</strong> regular miso}, miso salad dressings, nut<br />

<strong>and</strong> seed butter toppings, spreads <strong>and</strong> dressings, basic sauces,<br />

rice, noodles <strong>and</strong> <strong>other</strong> basic preparations).<br />

Our favorite t<strong>of</strong>u recipes (lists about 80 recipe names for<br />

each <strong>of</strong> the different types <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u, plus <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>, yuba, whole<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans, gô, okara, <strong>and</strong> curds; very favorites that are also<br />

quick <strong>and</strong> easy to prepare are preceded by an asterisk).<br />

Part II. Cooking with t<strong>of</strong>u: Recipes from East <strong>and</strong><br />

West (500 recipes). 4. Soybeans: History <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong>beans <strong>and</strong><br />

“<strong>soy</strong>bean foods,” cooking with whole dry <strong>soy</strong>beans, roasted<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans (iri-mame), fresh green <strong>soy</strong>beans (edamame,<br />

incl. a recipe for “Sweet emerald bean paste {Jinda}),”<br />

kinako (roasted full-fat <strong>soy</strong> fl our, incl. Japanese health food<br />

treats such as kinako amé, gokabo, kokusen, kankanbo,<br />

<strong>and</strong> abekawa mochi), <strong>soy</strong>bean sprouts (daizu no moyashi),<br />

natto (“sticky fermented whole <strong>soy</strong>beans,” with “gossamer<br />

threads”), tempeh (fermented <strong>soy</strong>bean cakes), Hamanatto<br />

<strong>and</strong> Daitokuji natto (raisin-like natto), modern western<br />

<strong>soy</strong>bean foods (natural <strong>soy</strong> fl our [full-fat], <strong>soy</strong> granules,<br />

defatted <strong>soy</strong> fl our <strong>and</strong> grits, <strong>soy</strong> protein concentrates, <strong>soy</strong><br />

protein isolates, spun protein fi bers, textured vegetable<br />

protein {TVP}, <strong>soy</strong> oil products). 5. Gô (a thick white puree<br />

<strong>of</strong> well-soaked uncooked <strong>soy</strong>beans). 6. Okara or Unohana. 7.<br />

Curds <strong>and</strong> whey. 8. T<strong>of</strong>u (includes <strong>history</strong>, <strong>and</strong> preparatory<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 127<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

techniques: Parboiling, draining, pressing {towel <strong>and</strong><br />

fridge method, slanting press method, sliced t<strong>of</strong>u method},<br />

squeezing, scrambling, reshaping, crumbling, grinding,<br />

homemade t<strong>of</strong>u (basic, from powdered <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>, fermentation<br />

method related to <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> <strong>yogurt</strong>), t<strong>of</strong>u quick <strong>and</strong> easy {incl.<br />

Chilled t<strong>of</strong>u–Hiya-yakko}, t<strong>of</strong>u dressings, spreads, dips <strong>and</strong><br />

hors d’oeuvre {incl. Creamy t<strong>of</strong>u dressings <strong>and</strong> dips, T<strong>of</strong>u<br />

mayonnaise dressing, T<strong>of</strong>u tartare sauce, T<strong>of</strong>u cream cheese,<br />

T<strong>of</strong>u sour cream, T<strong>of</strong>u cottage cheese, T<strong>of</strong>u guacamole}, t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

in salads {Western style <strong>and</strong> Japanese style salads incl. Shiraae},<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u with s<strong>and</strong>wiches <strong>and</strong> toast, t<strong>of</strong>u in soups {Western<br />

style <strong>and</strong> Japanese style soups, incl. miso soup}, t<strong>of</strong>u in<br />

sauces, t<strong>of</strong>u in breakfast egg dishes, t<strong>of</strong>u baked, t<strong>of</strong>u sautéed,<br />

stir-fried or topped with sauces {incl. Mabo-d<strong>of</strong>u [Ma Po<br />

doufu]}, deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u, t<strong>of</strong>u with grains, t<strong>of</strong>u broiled<br />

{incl. T<strong>of</strong>u dengaku}, t<strong>of</strong>u simmered in one-pot cookery<br />

<strong>and</strong> seasoned broths, t<strong>of</strong>u steamed, t<strong>of</strong>u desserts {incl. T<strong>of</strong>u<br />

whipped cream or <strong>yogurt</strong>, Banana t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>milk</strong>shake, T<strong>of</strong>u<br />

icing, T<strong>of</strong>u ice cream, T<strong>of</strong>u cheesecake, T<strong>of</strong>u-peanut butter<br />

cookies}).<br />

9. Deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u: Thick agé or nama-agé (incl. atsuagé<br />

meaning “thick deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u,” “three-cornered agé”<br />

{sankaku-agé} in Kyoto, agé cubes {kaku-agé}, “fi ve-color<br />

agé” {gomoku-agé}), ganmo or ganmodoki (incl. hiryozu /<br />

hirosu, “Flying Dragon’s Heads”), agé or aburagé (incl. kiji,<br />

“agé pouches,” “crisp agé”, kanso aburagé, “agé puffs,”<br />

“fried <strong>soy</strong>bean cakes,” “hollow agé cubes,” “Smoked t<strong>of</strong>u,”<br />

p. 189-91, 197).<br />

Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (May 2012) that contains the following terms related to<br />

deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u (p. 180-90): “Thick agé,” nama-agé, Hiryozu,<br />

“Dragon,” “Flying Dragon’s Heads,” “treasure balls,”<br />

“Ganmo treasure balls.” “fresh or raw deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u,”<br />

“three-cornered agé,” sankaku-agé, “agé cubes,” kaku-agé,<br />

kiji. “agé pouches,” “crisp agé,” kanso aburagé, “agé puffs,”<br />

“fried <strong>soy</strong>bean cakes,” or “hollow agé cubes.”<br />

10. Soy<strong>milk</strong>. 11. Kinugoshi (“Kinu means ‘silk’; kosu<br />

means ‘to strain’; well named, kinugoshi t<strong>of</strong>u has a texture<br />

so smooth that it seems to have been strained through silk.”<br />

It is made from concentrated <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>). 12. Grilled t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

(incl. sukiyaki). 13. Frozen <strong>and</strong> dried-frozen t<strong>of</strong>u. 14. Yuba<br />

(incl. many meat alternatives such as Yuba mock broiled<br />

eels, Buddha’s chicken, Buddha’s ham, sausage). 15. T<strong>of</strong>u<br />

<strong>and</strong> yuba in China, Taiwan, <strong>and</strong> Korea (incl. Savory t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

{wu-hsiang kan}; see p. 258 for illustrations <strong>of</strong> many meat<br />

alternatives, incl. Buddha’s fi sh, chicken, drumsticks, <strong>and</strong><br />

duck, plus vegetarian liver <strong>and</strong> tripe, molded pig’s head, <strong>and</strong><br />

molded ham). One type <strong>of</strong> Korean <strong>soy</strong>bean miso is called<br />

kotsu jang [sic, kochu jang]. When t<strong>of</strong>u is served with miso<br />

[Korean-style, Tenjang] as the dominant seasoning, <strong>and</strong> with<br />

rice, “it becomes the popular Tenjang Chige Pekpem” (p.<br />

262). 16. Special t<strong>of</strong>u.<br />

Note 2. This is the earliest (<strong>and</strong> only) English-language<br />

document seen (March 2009) that uses the word “Tenjang”

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