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history of soy yogurt, soy acidophilus milk and other ... - SoyInfo Center

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Connolly, who had long been selling piima starter in the USA<br />

(La Mesa, California), made <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> piima at home, using<br />

a recipe for <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> from The Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u by Shurtleff <strong>and</strong><br />

Aoyagi. She reported in a letter to Shurtleff (May 1979) that<br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> turned into piima faster than dairy <strong>milk</strong>; <strong>soy</strong> piima<br />

had a thicker <strong>and</strong> better consistency, <strong>and</strong> was liked by all<br />

who tasted it. 1-2 tablespoons <strong>of</strong> piima per pint <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong><br />

were incubated at 27ºC (80ºF). Thereafter she advertised<br />

that her starter could be used to make good <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> piima. A<br />

discussion <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> piima <strong>and</strong> viili, <strong>and</strong> their commercial<br />

production, was given in T<strong>of</strong>u & Soy<strong>milk</strong> Production (1979)<br />

by Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi, based largely on information<br />

obtained from Pat Connolly.<br />

The earliest known viili to come to the USA from<br />

Finl<strong>and</strong> arrived in about 1900 with the Kinnunen family, who<br />

lived in Fort Bragg, northern California. It was popular in<br />

the Finnish community there. It might have stayed isolated<br />

in the community had not Gordon McBride, whose m<strong>other</strong><br />

was a Finn from that community, <strong>and</strong> Betty Stechmeyer,<br />

started a small business named GEM Cultures in Fort Bragg<br />

in July 1980. They started selling tempeh starter cultures,<br />

but they soon added viili culture to their line <strong>of</strong> products.<br />

In December 1980 they made the world’s fi rst batch <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> viili, which they liked very much, although they<br />

found that it was not stretchy, <strong>and</strong> it was easier to propagate<br />

the starter on cow’s <strong>milk</strong> than on <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>. Soy<strong>milk</strong> viili<br />

has much less beany fl avor than the <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> from which it<br />

was made. The fi rst popular article on viili in the U.S. was<br />

written by McBride <strong>and</strong> Stechmeyer for the Summer 1981<br />

issue <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods magazine. In the article they called the<br />

product “viilia” (as they had heard it called by local Finns),<br />

the partitive case <strong>of</strong> the noun viili. Mention <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> viili next<br />

appeared in the October 1981 issue <strong>of</strong> East West Journal<br />

in an article by Rebecca Greenwood, <strong>and</strong> a third article by<br />

Shurtleff in the Winter 1982 issue <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods pointed out<br />

that the product was always called “viili” not “viilia” in the<br />

literature.<br />

Starting in early 1981, Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi did<br />

extensive home research on <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> viili <strong>and</strong> found it was<br />

best if 2 teaspoons <strong>of</strong> honey <strong>and</strong> 4-8 drops <strong>of</strong> vanilla were<br />

added to each quart <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> prior to incubation. By<br />

early 1981 Hesseltine <strong>and</strong> Wang at the Northern Regional<br />

Research <strong>Center</strong> were investigating both dairy <strong>and</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong><br />

viili, <strong>and</strong> planning to publish their fi ndings. There was an<br />

interest in the formation <strong>of</strong> vitamins, reduction <strong>of</strong> beany<br />

fl avors, <strong>and</strong> decrease <strong>of</strong> fl atulence-causing oligosaccharides<br />

during fermentation, in the best microorganisms for <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong><br />

viili, <strong>and</strong> in how to increase or decrease stretchiness. Having<br />

served dairy <strong>and</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> viili to many friends, Shurtleff <strong>and</strong><br />

Aoyagi believe they have great potential in the U.S., perhaps<br />

more than <strong>yogurt</strong>. Yet as <strong>of</strong> 1982 neither piima nor viili were<br />

being made commercially in America. They deserve much<br />

wider attention.<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 192<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

478. Product Name: Vege-Pro (Soy<strong>milk</strong>) [C<strong>of</strong>fee & Malt,<br />

Blended Juices, Plain (Dairylike), or Lactic Fermented].<br />

Manufacturer’s Name: Kibun Health Foods Co.<br />

Manufacturer’s Address: Saitama-ken, Japan.<br />

Date <strong>of</strong> Introduction: 1982. June.<br />

Ingredients: C<strong>of</strong>fee: Water, <strong>soy</strong>bean, corn syrup, malt<br />

extract, corn oil, c<strong>of</strong>fee extract, caramel (color), calcium<br />

lactate, sucrose fatty acid ester, salt, artifi cial fl avor,<br />

carrageenan. Blended Juices: Water, <strong>soy</strong>bean, corn syrup,<br />

orange, apple <strong>and</strong> pineapple juice from concentrate,<br />

propylene glycol, citric acid, calcium lactate, carotene,<br />

paprika, artifi cial fl avor.<br />

Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6.75 fl uid oz, 200 ml Tetra Brik<br />

Aseptic carton.<br />

How Stored: Refrigerated.<br />

Nutrition: Per 6.75 fl oz.: C<strong>of</strong>fee: Calories 140, protein 4<br />

gm, carbohydrate 20 gm, fat 5 gm. Blended Juices: Calories<br />

110, protein 3 gm, carbohydrate 22 gm, fat 2 gm.<br />

New Product–Documentation: Labels. 1984. 2.5 by 3.25<br />

inches by 1.5 wide. Paper carton. C<strong>of</strong>fee: Red, black, yellow,<br />

white on brown. Bird fl ying over c<strong>of</strong>fee beans illustration.<br />

Blended Juices: Red, green, black, white on yellow. Bird<br />

fl ying over fruit illustration. Vegetable: Red, yellow, black,<br />

white on green. Bird fl ying over trees illustration. “Vege-Pro<br />

tastes so much richer than ordinary vegetable juice. Enjoy<br />

this extra-refreshing blended vegetable drink that supplies<br />

protein <strong>and</strong> vitamins. What a delicious way to treat yourself<br />

to good nutrition everyday.” Tetra Brick packages, 3 color,<br />

200 ml. Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA:<br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>. “Vegetable protein drink.” Shurtleff &<br />

Aoyagi. 1984. Soy<strong>milk</strong> Industry & Market. p. 33, 46.<br />

479. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1982. Soyfoods<br />

industry: directory <strong>and</strong> databook. 2nd ed. Lafayette,<br />

California: Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>. 56 p. June. 28 cm. [24 ref]<br />

• Summary: A detailed study <strong>of</strong> the rapidly emerging<br />

<strong>soy</strong>foods industry <strong>and</strong> market. Contains original statistics<br />

compiled by the Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong> through interviews with<br />

companies. Contents: 1. Terminology: The many types <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>soy</strong>foods. I. Traditional low-technology <strong>soy</strong>foods. 1A–<br />

Nonfermented <strong>soy</strong>foods: Fresh green <strong>soy</strong>beans, whole dry<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans, <strong>soy</strong>nuts <strong>and</strong> <strong>soy</strong>nut butter, <strong>soy</strong> sprouts, whole<br />

<strong>soy</strong> fl our & grits, roasted <strong>soy</strong> fl our [kinako] & <strong>soy</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee,<br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> <strong>and</strong> dairylike <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> products, t<strong>of</strong>u (eight types),<br />

okara or <strong>soy</strong> pulp, yuba.<br />

1B–Fermented <strong>soy</strong>foods: Tempeh, miso, <strong>soy</strong> sauce,<br />

shoyu & tamari, natto & thua-nao, fermented t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

& <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>, <strong>soy</strong> nuggets [fermented black <strong>soy</strong>beans]<br />

(Hamanatto & tou-ch’ih).<br />

II. Modern <strong>soy</strong> protein foods: Defatted <strong>soy</strong> fl our, grits<br />

& fl akes, <strong>soy</strong> protein concentrates, textured <strong>soy</strong> protein<br />

products, <strong>soy</strong> protein isolates.<br />

III. Soy oil products: Soy salad oil & cooking oil, <strong>soy</strong> oil<br />

margarine & shortening, <strong>soy</strong> lecithin.

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