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quickly by hydrochloric acid at 80ºC for 8-10 hours.<br />

Chemical hydrolysis is a cheap <strong>and</strong> rapid process, but<br />

during the hydrolysis, various secondary reactions occur <strong>and</strong><br />

produce undesirable compounds, e.g. dark humins, furfurol,<br />

dimethyl sulfi de, hydrogen sulfi de, levulinic acid <strong>and</strong><br />

formic acid, which are not present in fermented <strong>soy</strong> sauce.<br />

Furfurol, dimethyl sulfi de <strong>and</strong> hydrogen sulfi de, which have<br />

strong, bad odors in themselves, are derived from pentose,<br />

methionine, <strong>and</strong> sulfur-containing amino acids respectively.<br />

Furthermore, tryptophane, one <strong>of</strong> the nutritionally important<br />

amino acids, is destroyed almost completely. As shown in<br />

Figure 1 [two chromatograms], the main organic acid <strong>of</strong><br />

fermented <strong>soy</strong> sauce is lactic acid, whereas the main organic<br />

acid <strong>of</strong> chemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce is formic acid. Levulinic acid,<br />

present in chemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce, does not exist naturally.<br />

“To improve the odors <strong>of</strong> chemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce,<br />

semichemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce was devised. It is made by<br />

hydrolyzing raw <strong>soy</strong>beans with a lower concentration <strong>of</strong><br />

hydrochloric acid (7-8%) as the fi rst step, followed by<br />

fermenting the hydrolysate with osmophilic yeasts in the<br />

presence <strong>of</strong> wheat koji.” In Japan, chemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce is not<br />

used as a <strong>soy</strong> sauce in itself, but as an extender for fermented<br />

<strong>soy</strong> sauce.<br />

Table 1 gives the typical chemical composition (per 100<br />

ml) <strong>of</strong> the fi ve varieties <strong>of</strong> traditional <strong>soy</strong> sauce in Japan,<br />

including Bé [Baumé; a measure <strong>of</strong> the relative density <strong>of</strong><br />

liquids], sodium (koikuchi is lowest at 17.6%, usukuchi is<br />

highest at 19.2%), total nitrogen (koikuchi has 1.55 gm,<br />

tamari has 2.55 gm or 65% more), formol nitrogen, reducing<br />

sugar, alcohol (koikuchi is 2.2%, by far the highest), pH<br />

(ranges from 4.6 to 4.8), <strong>and</strong> color.<br />

A brief description <strong>of</strong> each <strong>of</strong> the fi ve traditional<br />

varieties: (1) Koikuchi: This “dark-colored” shoyu is by<br />

far the most popular <strong>of</strong> the fi ve types <strong>of</strong> fermented <strong>soy</strong><br />

sauce in Japan, comprising 85% <strong>of</strong> the total. It is an allpurpose<br />

seasoning with a strong aroma, complex fl avor,<br />

<strong>and</strong> deep, reddish-brown color. These characteristics are<br />

mainly derived from the use <strong>of</strong> equal amounts <strong>of</strong> wheat <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans in the koji; (2) Usukuchi [light-colored] shoyu is<br />

characterized by a lighter, red-brownish color <strong>and</strong> a milder<br />

fl avor <strong>and</strong> aroma. It is used mainly for cooking when one<br />

wishes to preserve the original fl avor <strong>and</strong> color <strong>of</strong> the food<br />

itself. As in koikuchi, equal amounts <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong>beans <strong>and</strong> wheat<br />

are used in the koji, but the fermentation is done under<br />

conditions which prevent the development <strong>of</strong> a dark color.<br />

(3) Tamari shoyu has a higher amino acid content, but it<br />

lacks aroma. The koji is made primarily from <strong>soy</strong>beans with<br />

little or no wheat. (4) Saishikomi (twice-fermented) shoyu<br />

is made using equal amounts <strong>of</strong> wheat <strong>and</strong> <strong>soy</strong>beans in the<br />

koji, but using raw (unpasteurized) <strong>soy</strong> sauce instead <strong>of</strong> salt<br />

solution, which is mixed with the harvested koji. Saishikomi<br />

is characterized by aroma <strong>and</strong> full-bodied taste. (5) Shiro<br />

(clear, or “white”) shoyu is made by using a very high ratio<br />

<strong>of</strong> wheat to <strong>soy</strong>beans in the koji, <strong>and</strong> further by fermentation<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 178<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

under conditions which prevent dark color development. It is<br />

characterized by a very light yellow to tan color, though the<br />

amino acid content is very low because <strong>of</strong> the low <strong>soy</strong>bean<br />

content in the koji. Flow sheets (Figures 2-5) show the<br />

process for manufacturing koikuchi, usukuchi, <strong>and</strong> tamari<br />

shoyu. Each has three basic parts: Koji making process, brine<br />

fermentation process, <strong>and</strong> refi ning process.<br />

Concerning <strong>soy</strong> sauce production <strong>and</strong> consumption:<br />

The total annual production <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> sauce in Japan in 1979<br />

reported by the Japanese Agricultural St<strong>and</strong>ard (JAS) was<br />

1,252,431 kiloliters (kl). In 1979 in Japan, about 70% <strong>of</strong> the<br />

<strong>soy</strong> sauce products in Japan were purely fermented, 25%<br />

contained some semichemical <strong>soy</strong> sauce, <strong>and</strong> the remaining<br />

5% contained chemical (HVP) <strong>soy</strong> sauce. The most recent<br />

estimates <strong>of</strong> annual consumption <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> sauce in the USA are<br />

as follows: Fermented <strong>soy</strong> sauce 17,850 kl; Chemical (HVP)<br />

<strong>soy</strong> sauce 25,500 kl. Within fermented <strong>soy</strong> sauce, production<br />

<strong>of</strong> koikuchi <strong>soy</strong> sauce is estimated to be 16,500 kl/year.<br />

In Japan an “instant t<strong>of</strong>u powder” is actually a spraydried<br />

<strong>soy</strong> <strong>milk</strong>. This product was made <strong>and</strong> introduced by<br />

Nihon Tanpaku Kogyo (Japan Protein Industry) about 15<br />

years ago (ca. 1966) <strong>and</strong> was used mainly as a raw material<br />

for making regular or silken t<strong>of</strong>u in order to save time.<br />

“Recently, however [1973], the product was placed on the<br />

market as an instant powdered t<strong>of</strong>u [named Hausu Hontôfu]<br />

by Hausu [House] Foods Co.”<br />

Other fi gures show: (5) Manufacturing process <strong>of</strong> rice<br />

miso. (6) Manufacturing processes <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> <strong>milk</strong> used for<br />

making t<strong>of</strong>u, regular t<strong>of</strong>u, <strong>and</strong> silken t<strong>of</strong>u. (7) Manufacturing<br />

process <strong>of</strong> freeze-dried t<strong>of</strong>u (kori-t<strong>of</strong>u). (8) Manufacturing<br />

process <strong>of</strong> fermented <strong>soy</strong> <strong>milk</strong> beverage. Lactobacillus casei,<br />

L. <strong>acidophilus</strong>, <strong>and</strong> L. bulgaricus are usually used as starters.<br />

One such product recently appeared on the market in Japan.<br />

A photo shows D. Fukushima. Address: Kikkoman<br />

Foods, Inc., Walworth, Wisconsin 53184.<br />

432. Robins-Browne, Roy M.; Levine, Myron M. 1981. The<br />

fate <strong>of</strong> ingested lactobacilli in the proximal small intestine.<br />

American J. <strong>of</strong> Clinical Nutrition 34(4):514-19. April. [24<br />

ref]<br />

• Summary: “The suggestion that partial or complete<br />

replacement <strong>of</strong> the Gram-negative intestinal fl ora by a<br />

Lactobacillus variety would improve health <strong>and</strong> prolong life<br />

dates back to the turn <strong>of</strong> the twentieth century (Metchnik<strong>of</strong>f<br />

1907, “The prolongation <strong>of</strong> life”). Since that time numerous<br />

attempts have been made, both in healthy subjects <strong>and</strong> in<br />

those with disorders ranging from chronic constipation to<br />

enterocolitis <strong>and</strong> septicemia, to supplant the usual so-called<br />

‘putrefactive’ fl ora with a ‘lactic’ variety (refs. 2-4). There<br />

are many claims for almost panacean effects <strong>of</strong> Lactobacillus<br />

therapy, the majority <strong>of</strong> which stem from uncontrolled<br />

observations on small numbers <strong>of</strong> patients” (refs. 2-5).<br />

This paper deals with jejunal colonization. Note: The<br />

jejunum is the middle section <strong>of</strong> the small intestine in

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