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history of soy yogurt, soy acidophilus milk and other ... - SoyInfo Center

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“Fermentation for the manufacture <strong>of</strong> sauce [jiang or <strong>soy</strong><br />

sauce], cooked <strong>soy</strong>beans, or <strong>milk</strong>.<br />

“Concentration for the manufacture <strong>of</strong> <strong>milk</strong>, [okara]<br />

(torteaux de lait), or sauce.<br />

“Desiccation / drying to obtain powdered [<strong>soy</strong>] <strong>milk</strong>,<br />

powdered [<strong>soy</strong>] <strong>milk</strong> cake [okara] (poudre de lait de<br />

tourteaux), powdered <strong>soy</strong> sauce.<br />

A chart (fi g. 2, p. 350) describes the progress <strong>and</strong><br />

combination <strong>of</strong> different necessary operations to obtain these<br />

products.<br />

“You can see that the <strong>soy</strong>bean is fi rst dehulled so that it<br />

can be cooked or ground either dry or with the addition <strong>of</strong><br />

water. The dry-ground products, made into fl our, are used for<br />

baking, pastry-making, <strong>and</strong> the fabrication <strong>of</strong> pasta (pâtes<br />

alimentaires).<br />

“Dehulled <strong>soy</strong>beans treated by wet-grinding yield<br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>, which can itself be transformed into fermented<br />

<strong>milk</strong>, concentrated <strong>milk</strong>, powdered <strong>milk</strong>, or it can serve for<br />

the production <strong>of</strong> fresh or fermented cheeses, <strong>of</strong> [<strong>soy</strong>] sauce<br />

(by fermentation), as well as to obtain casein that can be<br />

dried or powdered; by pressing casein one obtains ‘sojalithe.’<br />

The oilcakes [okara] resulting from the fabrication <strong>of</strong> <strong>milk</strong><br />

are pressed <strong>and</strong> ground <strong>and</strong> can be used to make casein.<br />

“Soybeans are pressed to obtain oil which can itself<br />

serve as a base to make c<strong>and</strong>les, soaps, paint, artifi cial<br />

rubber, etc. Oilcakes remaining as by-products can be ground<br />

to make <strong>milk</strong> or pulverized to obtain fl our.<br />

“Cooked <strong>soy</strong>beans are also used to make condiments,<br />

fermented [<strong>soy</strong>] sauce, liquid sauce, solid [sauce], [sauce]<br />

concentrated into a paste or in dry powder. Cooked <strong>soy</strong>beans<br />

are also used to make pasty preserves (confi tures pâteuses) or<br />

in powder.<br />

“Cooked <strong>and</strong> grilled <strong>soy</strong>beans again serve to make [<strong>soy</strong>]<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee <strong>and</strong> chocolate.” Address: Seine, France.<br />

43. Prinsen Geerligs, H.C. 1917. Ueber die Anwendung von<br />

Enzymwirkungen in der Ostasiatischen Hausindustrie [On<br />

the application <strong>of</strong> enzymes in East Asian cottage industries].<br />

Zeitschrift fuer Angew<strong>and</strong>te Chemie, Wirtschaftlicher Teil<br />

30(3):256-57. May 8. [Ger]<br />

• Summary: Paper read before the Niederlaendische<br />

Chemische Vereinigung (Dutch Chemical Union), General<br />

session in The Hague, December 28, 1916.<br />

This paper is on the domestic application <strong>of</strong> enzyme<br />

actions in Eastern countries, <strong>and</strong> describes, among <strong>other</strong><br />

things, the making <strong>of</strong> fermented <strong>and</strong> non-fermented <strong>soy</strong>bean<br />

food products. “To make <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> (Milchersatz), only white<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans are used, s<strong>of</strong>tened in water for 3 hours until they<br />

have swollen to 3 times their original size. Then, while<br />

water is added continuously, they are milled between two<br />

hard stones <strong>and</strong> fall through a hole in the bottom stone into<br />

a pail. A very small amount <strong>of</strong> the thin <strong>soy</strong>bean slurry is<br />

set aside; through the proliferation <strong>of</strong> lactic acid bacteria it<br />

quickly becomes so sour that after several hours that lactic<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 43<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

acid content has risen to 1.5%. The above mass is cooked in<br />

a large pan. The now pasteurized liquid is fi ltered through<br />

a large sieve to remove the hulls <strong>and</strong> hard pieces. The<br />

fi ltered <strong>milk</strong>-white liquid has, in appearance <strong>and</strong> chemical<br />

composition, the greatest similarity with animal <strong>milk</strong>. A<br />

sample contains 6.9% solids, 3.13% protein, <strong>and</strong> 1.89%<br />

fat. It gives an alkaline reaction <strong>and</strong> contains a solution <strong>of</strong><br />

legumin bound to potassium phosphate, while the fat is<br />

emulsifi ed in the thick protein solution. Unfortunately this<br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> (Bohnenmilch) tastes very much like raw Frenchbeans<br />

(Schneidebohnen), so that people who are accustomed<br />

to cow’s <strong>milk</strong> do not enjoy it much. But infants should be<br />

very content with it.<br />

“If cheese is to be made from this <strong>milk</strong>, a small amount<br />

<strong>of</strong> the slurry soured with lactic acid is added to it. Thereby,<br />

the legumin (protein) is dissolved from the potassium<br />

phosphate <strong>and</strong> coagulated, then settles out with the fat with<br />

which it is emulsifi ed. When the <strong>milk</strong>, through several hours<br />

mixing with the coagulation liquid, has become fully fi rm, it<br />

is packed in cloths <strong>and</strong> pressed between boards, in order to<br />

remove any excess water. Then the cakes are cut into square<br />

pieces; if they are to be eaten raw, it must be done quickly,<br />

lest they continuing souring <strong>and</strong> spoil. In order to impart a<br />

pleasant color to the cakes, they may be placed for several<br />

moments in a Curcuma [turmeric] decoction. Mostly the<br />

cakes <strong>of</strong> cheese (Kaesekuchen) are dried in the sun or fried<br />

(gebraten). They then keep better <strong>and</strong> acquire a pleasant<br />

fl avor.”<br />

“Of much greater signifi cance is the preparation <strong>of</strong><br />

the most popular <strong>and</strong> prevalent <strong>soy</strong>bean preparation, <strong>soy</strong><br />

sauce (der Soja), which in East Asia is an indispensable<br />

seasoning for a variety <strong>of</strong> dishes, <strong>and</strong> is produced <strong>and</strong> used<br />

in unbelievably large quantities. There are various types,<br />

some <strong>of</strong> which contain wheat fl our. But here we will consider<br />

only the type that is made [in the Dutch East Indies] with<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans plus some added ingredients to improve the fl avor.<br />

Note: This is the earliest German-language document<br />

seen (April 2012) that uses the term der Soja to refer to <strong>soy</strong><br />

sauce.<br />

For the preparation <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> sauce, brown or black<br />

<strong>soy</strong>beans are cooked for several hours. After pouring <strong>of</strong>f the<br />

cooking water, the beans are placed in fl at trays (Hürden<br />

[tampah]) <strong>of</strong> woven bamboo <strong>and</strong> dried for half a day in<br />

the sun, then cooled in the shade. When they are cooled,<br />

the beans are covered with leaves <strong>of</strong> Hibiscus tiliaceus,<br />

a species <strong>of</strong> mallow, <strong>and</strong> they are soon covered with a<br />

layer <strong>of</strong> Aspergillus mold, which is usually found on the<br />

tiny hairs or cilia on the underside <strong>of</strong> the hibiscus leaves<br />

<strong>and</strong> so is transferred to the beans. The mold fi laments or<br />

hyphae penetrate between the tough <strong>and</strong> thick cell walls,<br />

dissolve these through hydrolysis, <strong>and</strong> thus make the cell<br />

contents accessible to the infl uence <strong>of</strong> the molds. The mold<br />

is allowed to work until it forms spores (Fruchtstaende).<br />

The beans then appear to be covered with a brownish green

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