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in suppressing the putrefactive bacteria <strong>of</strong> the intestines is<br />

the organism commonly known as Bacillus bulgaricus, or<br />

the Metchnik<strong>of</strong>f bacillus” (p. 4). Address: Bacteriologist in<br />

Charge <strong>of</strong> Research Lab., Dairy Div. [USDA].<br />

40. Melhuish, William James. 1916. Manufacture <strong>of</strong><br />

vegetable <strong>milk</strong> <strong>and</strong> its derivatives. U.S. Patent 1,175,467.<br />

March 14. 3 p. Application fi led 1 June 1914.<br />

• Summary: “Within the last few years experiments have<br />

been carried out with the idea <strong>of</strong> making <strong>soy</strong> <strong>milk</strong> more<br />

palatable... It is found that the ‘nutty’ fl avor hitherto<br />

associated with <strong>soy</strong> bean <strong>milk</strong> is to a large extent due to the<br />

presence <strong>of</strong> a small quantity <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong> bean oil which comes out<br />

in the casein extractive process... This objectionable fl avor<br />

is got rid <strong>of</strong> by (1) either crushing the oil from the beans in<br />

making the meal <strong>and</strong> before using the meal for the casein<br />

extraction, or (2) crushing the whole bean into meal without<br />

rupturing the oil cells, <strong>and</strong> then, after the casein extraction is<br />

complete, separating the oil from it. For this purpose a cream<br />

separator or any well-known form <strong>of</strong> centrifugal separator or<br />

fi lter may be used, <strong>and</strong> the oil so separated can be utilized for<br />

<strong>other</strong> commercial purposes.”<br />

Further, the addition <strong>of</strong> “citric acid greatly improves<br />

the fl avor <strong>of</strong> the <strong>milk</strong> <strong>and</strong> destroys the slight nutty, beany or<br />

mealy taste which may remain in the fi nished product.” A<br />

culture <strong>of</strong> lactic acid bacteria must also be added to insure<br />

proper digestion <strong>of</strong> the <strong>milk</strong>.<br />

The fi rst claim states: “The process <strong>of</strong> making vegetable<br />

<strong>milk</strong> from <strong>soy</strong> beans crushed into a meal for the purpose<br />

<strong>of</strong> extracting the casein by stirring the said meal in hot<br />

water, fi ltering the solution from the residue, extracting the<br />

nauseous <strong>soy</strong> oil, adding... sesame oil <strong>and</strong> fatty acids to<br />

make an imitation cow’s <strong>milk</strong> cream, emulsifying same so<br />

that the said fats will not rise by the law <strong>of</strong> gravity, adding<br />

dry crystallized powdered maltose with <strong>other</strong> sugars, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

necessary alkaline salts.” In claim 4 the citric acid <strong>and</strong> lactic<br />

culture are added.<br />

Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (May 2005) that contains the word “beany” in<br />

connection with fl avor problems in <strong>soy</strong>beans or <strong>soy</strong>foods (in<br />

this case the <strong>milk</strong>).<br />

Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (Sept. 2002) that mentions an “imitation cow’s <strong>milk</strong><br />

cream” made from <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>. Address: Lecturer in dietetics,<br />

Upper Parkstone, Dorset County, Engl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

41. Laxa, Otakar. 1916. Rostlinné mléko, levna nahrazka<br />

mleka kravskeho [Vegetable <strong>milk</strong>, an inexpensive substitute<br />

for cow’s <strong>milk</strong>]. Zpravy Laktologickeho Ustavu (Dairy<br />

Institute News) (Prague) No. 5. 10 p. [26 ref. Cze; ger]<br />

• Summary: According to Horvath (1927, p. 65) this article<br />

recommends the following procedure: “100 gms. <strong>of</strong> good<br />

yellow or green <strong>soy</strong>beans washed in cold water until the<br />

water is absolutely clear. After the cleaning soak for 24 hours<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 41<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

in an amount <strong>of</strong> cold water just suffi cient to cover them.<br />

After the beans become s<strong>of</strong>t, mash in an almond-mill <strong>of</strong> the<br />

kitchen type. Pour the resulting <strong>milk</strong> mass in a bottle with a<br />

capacity <strong>of</strong> 2 liters to which are added 900 cc. <strong>of</strong> cold water,<br />

10-15 gms. <strong>of</strong> cane sugar, 1 gm. <strong>of</strong> sodium chloride <strong>and</strong> one<br />

drop <strong>of</strong> essence <strong>of</strong> fresh hay, in order to cover the beany taste<br />

<strong>and</strong> smell with an aroma similar to cow’s <strong>milk</strong>. Close the<br />

bottle <strong>and</strong> shake the contents from time to time. Filter the<br />

liquid through a clean linen bag after 4 hours so the residue<br />

is pressed out. In this way about 750 cc. <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> are<br />

obtained.<br />

Note: This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2010) that<br />

contains a detailed description <strong>of</strong> how to make <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> at<br />

home or in a typical European kitchen.<br />

The chemical composition (without adding the values<br />

for cane sugar <strong>and</strong> sodium chloride) is: water, 94.85%; fat,<br />

1.00%; protein, 1.78%; reducing sugar, 0.11%; galactanes<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>other</strong> soluble carbohydrates, 2.02%; ash 0.34%; dry<br />

substance, 5.15%. The addition <strong>of</strong> 10 gms. cane sugar <strong>and</strong><br />

1 gm. table salt to 1 liter raises the amount <strong>of</strong> dry substance<br />

to about 6% <strong>and</strong> also the ash content <strong>and</strong> the nutritive value.<br />

The food value <strong>of</strong> such <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> is estimated by Pr<strong>of</strong>.<br />

Laxa to be equal to about one-half <strong>of</strong> the food value <strong>of</strong> whole<br />

cow’s <strong>milk</strong>, or two-thirds the value <strong>of</strong> skimmed <strong>milk</strong>. The<br />

cost <strong>of</strong> one liter <strong>of</strong> this <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> in Prague in 1916 was<br />

estimated by Laxa to be two <strong>and</strong> a half cents (Mex.) if made<br />

at home.” Notice that no mention is made <strong>of</strong> cooking the<br />

<strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>!<br />

Horvath (1927, p. 60) continues: “According to Pr<strong>of</strong>.<br />

Laxa, the fresh <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> shows a slight alkaline reaction.<br />

‘At 12 degrees <strong>of</strong> acidity <strong>of</strong> Soxhlet-Henkel it coagulates on<br />

boiling. The fresh <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> gives a strong peroxidase<br />

reaction <strong>of</strong> Storch [Starch]. It is also rich in katalase<br />

[catalase]. If hydrogen peroxide (a 10% solution) is added to<br />

<strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> in proportion 5 cc. to 15 cc., 15cc. <strong>of</strong> oxygen<br />

are formed (liberated) in two hours. The reductase test, on<br />

the contrary, goes very slowly. No change can be observed<br />

if rennet is added to slightly warmed <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong>. But if<br />

one increases the content <strong>of</strong> soluble calcium salts (adding f.e.<br />

calcium citrate), a fi nely fl occulated precipitate is formed.<br />

The <strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> curdles spontaneously at room temperature<br />

if the developed acidity reaches 14.8 degrees <strong>of</strong> Soxhlet-<br />

Henkel. In order to inhibit the putrefi cation [putrefaction] <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>soy</strong>bean <strong>milk</strong> it is advisable to add a few drops <strong>of</strong> a culture<br />

<strong>of</strong> lactic acid bacteria. Soybean <strong>milk</strong> supplemented with<br />

lactose <strong>and</strong> inoculated with a culture <strong>of</strong> yoghourt [<strong>yogurt</strong>]<br />

bacteria, coagulates at 40ºC in 4 hours <strong>and</strong> gives a curd-like<br />

acid mass.’<br />

Yeu (1933, p. 14) states: “It was not until 1916 that<br />

a study <strong>of</strong> <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> as a substitute for cow’s <strong>milk</strong> was<br />

undertaken. O. Laxa gives the composition <strong>of</strong> <strong>milk</strong> obtained<br />

from <strong>soy</strong>beans cultivated near Prague. He made a <strong>soy</strong> <strong>yogurt</strong>.<br />

He concluded that <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong> was not important except in<br />

places totally lacking animal <strong>milk</strong>s.”

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