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the famous Seventh-day Adventist physician <strong>and</strong> vegetarian.<br />

Named Nuttose, it was launched in 1896. Made largely from<br />

peanuts, it was a true non-dairy product that was also used as<br />

a meat alternative.<br />

The fi rst commercial <strong>soy</strong> cheeses in the Western world<br />

were developed <strong>and</strong> made Li Yu-ying in 1911. At his modern<br />

<strong>soy</strong>foods factory near Paris, Li manufactured Fermented<br />

T<strong>of</strong>u Cheese in Gruyère, Roquefort <strong>and</strong> Camembert fl avors.<br />

Between 1911 <strong>and</strong> 1985 most <strong>of</strong> the commercial<br />

cheese alternatives in America were made by Seventh-day<br />

Adventist companies. Though we know the names <strong>of</strong> these<br />

early products, their ingredients <strong>and</strong> properties are not<br />

always clear. In 1939 Madison Foods (Madison, Tennessee)<br />

introduced Cheze-O-Soy, based on t<strong>of</strong>u. In 1942 Butler<br />

Food Co. (Cedar Lake, Michigan) launched ViM-eat Soy-<br />

Nut Cheese <strong>and</strong> in 1944 Butler’s Soynut Cheese. In 1951<br />

Loma Linda Foods (Arlington, California) rolled out Vege-<br />

Chee (canned, based on t<strong>of</strong>u). And in 1961 Worthington<br />

Foods (Ohio) introduced Kreem-Chee, the world’s second<br />

commercial non-dairy cream cheese.<br />

The idea <strong>of</strong> cream cheese alternatives was fi rst<br />

conceived <strong>of</strong> by an<strong>other</strong> Seventh-day Adventist, Jethro<br />

Kloss. In April 1934 the Miami Daily News reported how<br />

approximately 6,000 people had recently heard him speak<br />

about dairylike foods made from <strong>soy</strong> beans at Bayfront<br />

park. He exhibited 21 foods made from <strong>soy</strong> beans (including<br />

cream cheese, yellow cheese, <strong>and</strong> cottage cheese) <strong>and</strong> invited<br />

the public to taste them.<br />

By November 1938 the Wigmore Health Shop in<br />

London was making the world’s fi rst Soya Cream Cheese.<br />

The fi rst two commercial t<strong>of</strong>u cheesecakes were created in<br />

1971 by students <strong>of</strong> macrobiotics: One by Marcea Newman<br />

was sold at her Souen restaurant in New York; the <strong>other</strong> by<br />

David Kalan (named T<strong>of</strong>u Blueberry Pie) was sold at his<br />

Crane’s Call Bakery in Boston. The fi rst two recipes for a<br />

<strong>soy</strong> cheesecake appeared in 1974: One by Marcea Newman<br />

(made with t<strong>of</strong>u) in her book The Sweet Life: Marcea<br />

Newman’s Natural Food Dessert Book; the <strong>other</strong> by The<br />

Farm in Summertown, Tennessee (made with <strong>soy</strong> cheese,<br />

from naturally fermented/soured <strong>soy</strong><strong>milk</strong>) in their booklet<br />

Yay Soybeans! The fi rst recipe for a “T<strong>of</strong>u Cheesecake”<br />

appeared in The Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u by Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Aoyagi<br />

(1975).<br />

The modern category <strong>of</strong> commercial <strong>soy</strong> cheeses <strong>and</strong><br />

cheese alternatives was born under a bad sign. It began in<br />

America in March 1985 with the introduction <strong>of</strong> Soyarella–<br />

probably the most deceptive <strong>soy</strong>food product ever launched<br />

in America. Though extremely popular for about a year,<br />

it was unfortunately mislabeled to deliberately deceive<br />

consumers. Though marketed as a “non-dairy <strong>soy</strong> product”<br />

which contained no casein yet melted like cheese, it was<br />

later found to contain about 15% casein. The “source” <strong>of</strong><br />

Soyarella (not to be confused with T<strong>of</strong>uRella) is thought<br />

to have been Nature’s Best in Osseo, Michigan. But the<br />

HISTORY OF SOY YOGURT & CULTURED SOYMILK 381<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> 2012<br />

name <strong>of</strong> the manufacturer was not given on the label–<strong>and</strong> it<br />

remains a mystery to this day.<br />

In America, this new category has a number <strong>of</strong> basic<br />

characteristics: (1) Casein (a <strong>milk</strong> protein) or caseinates<br />

is used in more than 95% <strong>of</strong> all products to make them<br />

melt <strong>and</strong> stretch like dairy cheeses. Less than 5% <strong>of</strong> all<br />

products are truly non-dairy; (2) In the late 1980s, most<br />

manufacturers, marketers, <strong>and</strong> retailers deliberately<br />

concealed from consumers the fact that casein is derived<br />

from cow’s <strong>milk</strong> (complicated by the fact that FDA<br />

regulations allow food products that contain casein to be<br />

called “non-dairy”); (3) Many consumers believe that most<br />

cheese alternatives are truly non-dairy products. Fortunately,<br />

labels <strong>and</strong> promotional materials have become more honest<br />

with each passing year–yet many consumers still remain<br />

confused <strong>and</strong> some deceptive practices still exist; (4) All<br />

products are free <strong>of</strong> cholesterol <strong>and</strong> lactose, <strong>and</strong> relatively<br />

low in saturated fats. Some are also low in total fats, calories,<br />

<strong>and</strong> sodium; (5) About 95% <strong>of</strong> the products are <strong>soy</strong> cheeses<br />

<strong>and</strong> 5% are nut or seed cheeses without <strong>soy</strong>. Most products<br />

contain t<strong>of</strong>u (either dried or fresh) as a major ingredient;<br />

(6) Most products are sold at natural- or health food stores,<br />

<strong>and</strong> retail for about 50% more than typical dairy cheese sold<br />

at supermarkets; (7) About 95% <strong>of</strong> the products are hard<br />

cheeses <strong>and</strong> 5% are s<strong>of</strong>t cheeses, mainly cream cheeses.<br />

The fi rst major <strong>soy</strong> cheese to hit the market was Soya<br />

Kaas, introduced in Jan. 1986 by Richard McIntyre <strong>of</strong> Soya<br />

Kaas Inc., a subsidiary <strong>of</strong> Swan Gardens Inc. Marketed<br />

exclusively by American Natural Snacks <strong>of</strong> Florida, it is still<br />

America’s most popular cheese alternative. In June 1986<br />

Mozzarella Style T<strong>of</strong>u-Rella was introduced by Richard<br />

<strong>and</strong> Sharon Rose <strong>of</strong> Brightsong Foods. The company later<br />

became Sharon’s Finest <strong>and</strong> the product was renamed<br />

T<strong>of</strong>uRella. In Oct. 1986 Original Piz<strong>soy</strong> (a whole-wheat<br />

pizza topped with <strong>soy</strong> cheese) was introduced by Tree Tavern<br />

Products; It was the fi rst product in which <strong>soy</strong> cheese was<br />

used as an ingredient.<br />

In Jan. 1987 Soymage was introduced by Soyco Foods,<br />

a Division <strong>of</strong> Galaxy Cheese Co.; This was Soyco’s fi rst<br />

<strong>soy</strong> cheese product <strong>and</strong> the fi rst modern <strong>soy</strong> cheese that<br />

contained no casein. In April 1987 NuT<strong>of</strong>u was introduced<br />

by Cemac Foods Corp. This was Cemac’s fi rst <strong>soy</strong> cheese<br />

product. In April 1988 Soyco shreds <strong>and</strong> slices were<br />

introduced–the fi rst <strong>soy</strong> cheese shreds <strong>and</strong> slices. In 1988<br />

new labels for Sharon’s Finest T<strong>of</strong>u-Rella became the fi rst<br />

(as far as we can tell) to state clearly on the label that the<br />

casein in the product is derived from <strong>milk</strong>.<br />

In Jan. 1991 Fat-Free Soyco was introduced–the fi rst<br />

fat-free <strong>soy</strong> cheese. In Dec. 1992 Almond Cheeze was<br />

introduced by Wholesome & Hearty Foods–the fi rst major<br />

non-<strong>soy</strong> cheese alternative. In April 1994 VeganRella (made<br />

from Brazil nuts) was introduced by Sharon’s Finest–a true<br />

non-dairy non-<strong>soy</strong> cheese said to have excellent fl avor <strong>and</strong><br />

texture.

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