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580 21a. asia minor and cyprus<br />

although less lavishly during the sixth century, and the synagogue at Side<br />

was being repaired in the late fourth and early fifth century.<br />

Although the great civic temples were disintegrating during the fifth<br />

century, it is clear that pagan worship did continue in Asia Minor and<br />

Cyprus throughout the period. The mentions <strong>of</strong> Christ and <strong>of</strong> Apollo on<br />

the fifth-century mosaics <strong>of</strong> the house <strong>of</strong> Eustolius at Curium are paralleled<br />

by invocations <strong>of</strong> Aphrodite in inscriptions from Aphrodisias in the<br />

late fifth century. It is rash to place too much weight on the use <strong>of</strong> pagan<br />

imagery and language, when this was the normal means <strong>of</strong> expression for<br />

all educated people. But at Aphrodisias we know <strong>of</strong> an avowedly pagan<br />

circle, at least among the élite, who welcomed the pagan philosopher<br />

Asclepiodotus <strong>of</strong> Alexandria when he came to settle there. Such people<br />

might have been the owners <strong>of</strong> small pagan statuettes and two figures <strong>of</strong><br />

Egyptian divinities found in the excavation <strong>of</strong> a lavish house, probably <strong>of</strong><br />

the fifth century.<br />

These discoveries might only suggest a taste for the old-fashioned at<br />

Aphrodisias, but recent excavation has uncovered a striking series <strong>of</strong><br />

sculpted portraits <strong>of</strong> philosophers from the late fourth or fifth century in<br />

a substantial and centrally-located building. This seems to confirm the evidence<br />

that Aphrodisias was a centre for Neoplatonist teaching at this<br />

period, where Asclepiodotus would have had a valuable contribution to<br />

make. He and other philosophers travelled throughout the eastern<br />

Mediterranean, and were concerned to keep alive the traditions <strong>of</strong> pagan<br />

worship – thus Proclus, who originally came from Lycia but made his career<br />

in Athens, visited Lydia, both to study and to encourage proper pagan religious<br />

practice there. Paganism could even have political significance: pagans<br />

at Aphrodisias made sacrifices for the success <strong>of</strong> the revolt <strong>of</strong> Illus in<br />

Isauria. But perhaps more significant than this activity in the upper levels<br />

<strong>of</strong> society is the fact that when John <strong>of</strong> Ephesus was working as a missionary<br />

in the 540s, he could claim to have baptized 80,000 pagans in Asia,<br />

Caria, Lydia and Phrygia; this suggests that in some cases cities with an<br />

apparently ‘Christianized’ civic centre might be surrounded by a relatively<br />

unaltered pagan countryside. 20<br />

Even if a cultivated élite retained an interest in philosophy, however, the<br />

old idea <strong>of</strong> a civic education for all the young men <strong>of</strong> a city seems to have<br />

evaporated in the third century, and there seems to have been no further use<br />

for the great gymnasia <strong>of</strong> antiquity, which were expensive to run. In at least<br />

two abandoned gymnasia at Ephesus, churches were built. But the bath complexes<br />

which were <strong>of</strong>ten associated with gymnasia stayed in use; thus at<br />

Salamis-Constantia in the fifth century, while the ruins <strong>of</strong> the gymnasium<br />

20 Lydia: Marinus, Life <strong>of</strong> Proclus 15, with Fowden (1990); Illus: Zacharias <strong>of</strong> Mitylene, Life <strong>of</strong> Severus<br />

40; John <strong>of</strong> Ephesus, Lives <strong>of</strong> the Eastern Saints (PO xviii.681). For a discussion <strong>of</strong> paganism in Asia<br />

Minor at this period see Trombley, Hellenic Religion ii.52–133.<br />

<strong>Cambridge</strong> <strong>Hi</strong>stories Online © <strong>Cambridge</strong> University Press, 2008

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