20-24 septembrie 2009 - Biblioteca Metropolitana Bucuresti

484 Alicia CampiThe Manchus had established a trade passes system for Chinesewishing to trade among the Mongols and Tibetans. ROCKHILL claimedthis policy had almost ended legitimate trade between the Gansu Chineseand Mongols, while encouraging contraband trade. He witnessed theannual “little tribute” ceremony of Mongol princes to display their loyaltyto the Xining Manchu amban. Satins, knives, and other goods, all strictlyfixed in numbers, were presented by the amban to the princes. The princes,in turn, did the kowtow (kneeling and touching the head to the floor) inthe direction of Peking, and then everyone partied at a banquet. Everythree years the Mongol princes had to go to Peking to renew their oaths ofallegiance to the emperor in the “great tribute” ceremony. 11In Xining, to escape the Chinese magistrates whom ROCKHILLsuspected wanted to prevent him from going to Tibet, the diplomat donnedMongol del and fur cap to cover his clean shaven head and face and togetherwith a group of Khalkha Mongols rode off toward the Koko-nor range.There were Mongols, mounted on camels or horses, and clothed insheepskin gowns and big fur caps, or else in yellow or red lama robes –the women hardly distinguishable from the men, save those who, fromcoquetry, had put on their green satin gowns and silver head and neckornaments, to produce a sensation on entering Lusar or Kumbum. 12In the small village of Lusar near Kumbum he attended a dragon festivaland saw groups of Mongols amidst the crowds of Kampa Tibetans, LhasaTibetans, and Chinese from minority tribes. He noted that the Mongols ofthe Koko-nor and Tsaidam Mongols dressed much like Tibetans, althoughmarried women retained their Mongolian hairstyle with tresses encased inheavy embroidered satin falling on either side of the face. 13 ROCKHILLstayed in Lusar a month, often mistaken for a Mongol or a Turk. In KumbumROCKHILL bought camels from the Koko-nor Mongols to continue hisjourney. He also met a Khalkha Mongol “Living Buddha” called Cheunjin(Cheojey) Lama on his way to Lhasa, but was not able to travel with him.After the long stay in Kumbun region, ROCKHILL headed out towardsTibet. First, he passed through the territory of the Tankar Mongols, part ofthe 800-1000 ger Eastern Koko-nor Mongols led by Mori Wang. Thesewere the last large concentration of Mongols he saw on the first trip. Hedescribed them as very poor, herding sheep and goats with not more than100 head per family, usually with five or six horses and an equal numberof camels: “They live in constant dread of their Tibetan neighbors, who11Ibidem, 54.12Ibidem, 56.13Ibidem, 61.